So you’ve got a deck with another color or product on it, and now you want to use a new Ready Seal color. Where do you start? Before you re-stain a deck, there are a few steps you need take to prepare and get the deck ready to absorb the new color, and thus get the best result. If this is the first time deck stain color is going to be applied to the surface of your deck, you can start at Step Three. For those who have a deck with stain already applied, there is the extra step of making sure that the old color is removed before you start.
Step One- ASSESS the Deck:
Start by looking over the condition of the deck. Make sure there are no loose nails or rotting boards before you start trying to re-stain a deck. Check the boards for signs of splintering or rot. Fix any issues you find before you proceed with staining the deck.
Step Two- STRIP the Deck:
If there is any other product other than Ready Seal on the wood, remove any pre-existing deck stain or paint. Ready Seal recommends using a good quality wood stripper as opposed to sanding- follow the manufacturer’s instructions for the wood stripper. (*If you absolutely have to sand, use 60 or 80 grit paper, and sand the entire surface evenly, not just in some areas, as this affects the porosity of the wood). Make sure the paint or stain is uniformly removed from the wood surface and no patches remain. This is essential for your new stain to look the same across every part of the deck. Once all of the previous product is removed, you can proceed to cleaning the deck.
Step Three- NEUTRALIZE, CLEAN & BRIGHTEN the Deck:
Clean and brighten the wood following the wood stripper. Power wash the wood following the stripping process to remove the residue that has been stripped off. Be sure the power washer is set on a low pressure (1000psi or less) and only move in the direction of the planks, so as not to damage the wood. Then use oxalic acid (following manufacturer’s directions) to neutralize the stripper and brighten the wood. Once the oxalic acid has dried to a powder finish and has been swept or blown off the deck, finish cleaning with a light bleach and water solution sprayed on the wood, let it set for 10-15 minutes, and then rinse well with a garden hose. This last step will brighten the wood and kill any mold or mildew that may be growing in the wood. * For brand new, unstained deck boards, all of these tasks in Step Three should be followed to remove the mill glaze on the wood before staining. *
Step Four- DRY DRY DRY the Deck:
After injecting that much water into the wood through the stripping and cleaning, you must allow the wood to dry completely down to 12% moisture or less. This will take at least 48 hours if you are in a hot, dry climate, or could take 5-7 days if it is cool or humid, maybe more. If it rains, or there is morning dew, or the sprinklers hit it, you will need to start the dry time over. This is extremely important, as Ready Seal is an oil-based penetrating product, and it can not go into the wood if there is moisture still there. The wood may feel dry on top, but could still have moisture under the top layer, so use a wood moisture meter to determine if it is dry enough if you are unsure. The consequence of staining when the wood has moisture in it is that Ready Seal will stay on top of the wood like a paint rather than penetrating down into the wood fibers where it is supposed to be, and that top coating may peel and flake off over time.
* Once the deck has dried, if you see any frayed fibers from the powerwashing, you can use a stainless steel brush (like a swimming pool algae brush) to gently score those frayed fibers away. *Sanding is not recommended, but if you have to, wait til the wood is dry, use 60-80 grit, and sand uniformly across the whole surface.
Step Five- STAIN the Deck:
Once you have selected the new stain color, make sure to remove the lids for the containers and use a stir stick to stir well, dragging that stick on the bottom of the can to make sure there is no pigment on the bottom. Even if the store shook the containers for you, always remove the lids and stir yourself. If you have multiple containers, it is recommended to mix together before staining to ensure there is color consistency on the whole project in the event any pigments settle on the bottom. You can use a brush, a roller, a sprayer, a pad, or any tool you choose – there is no right or wrong way, the wood will absorb the product beautifully if all the above prep work was done correctly. And you can walk on the deck while applying- it will not leave marks in the stain, although stain may get on your shoes, so you don’t want to track it in the house or onto any other surfaces. It is recommended to apply two coats of Ready Seal if the wood will receive it, but not every piece of lumber will take two coats- and you definitely do NOT want to overapply. Any excess product that can not penetrate into the wood will sit on top like a coating, and will peel and flake off later. So after the first coat, test a small area to see if the wood is still absorbing more product by dripping a few drops on a board, then walk away for an hour. When you return, wipe at that spot with a paper towel to see if any pigment is coming off. If there is significant pigment wiping off, then the wood is not absorbing anymore, so do not waste your time or the product trying to put more on the wood.
Step Six- FINISHING the Deck:
If all the above wood prep steps were followed, Ready Seal will penetrate in right away, and you can replace furniture the same day in most cases. Wait about a week to allow the stain to fully cure before adding rugs or textiles. If you have leftover product, repackage it into smaller containers and fill to the top to remove trapped air in the can, and always store stain in an area not exposed to extreme temperatures. This will give you some shelf life on the leftover product for any future projects. Trapped air in a partially used can and/or the extreme temperatures will almost always cause a permanent separation of the oils and pigments, and it can not be reconstituted after that happens.
Once these steps are completed, your newly stained deck will be ready to use! Over the first few weeks, the color of your deck may lighten slightly as the stain settles. Maintenance is easy – when it’s time to restain, simply do a light cleaning of the wood (no sanding or stripping necessary), dry it completely, then you can apply another light coat of Ready Seal over the existing Ready Seal. Now go enjoy your beautifully stained deck!
William Dyer says
Can you spray over pressure treated wood..
RSAdmin says
Mr Dyer,
Yes, you can spray Ready Seal on pressure treated wood. If it is new PT fencing or deck material you will need to let it dry for 6-8 weeks before applying Ready Seal. The interior moisture needs to be at 12% or less before you apply. Thanks for your interest in Ready Seal!
Randy Anderson says
I just pressure stripped my 8 year old painted fence with a power washer. I am going to let it dry a week before starting the staining process with a stain sprayer. Is a week enough time to dry?
Thank you
RSAdmin says
Hi Randy, One week should be long enough to dry in most instances. To be sure you should get a moisture meter and make sure the moisture content is 12% or less. Thank you for using Ready Seal on your fence!
Steve Salzman says
After staining how long before walking on it?
Thomas Graham says
Mr. Salzman,
The viscosity of Ready Seal Wood Stain provides a wide application temperature spectrum ranging from teens to 120+ degrees. Penetration and dry time is certainly slower in the cooler temperatures. Dry Time can be 3 to 7 days. Ready Seal Does Not Raise The Grains of Wood. You can walk & re-stage furniture right away without any foot prints, finger prints or markings. If you want to accelerate the dry time and circumvent the tracking, saturate an old cloth or old mop with mineral spirits and take across surface to cut excess oil. This will address the slippery surface & curtail the tracking issues.
Greg brown says
If changing deck stain on sides with lattice work. Can I prep with pressure washer and then stain over or will I need to add a primer and paint it’s refwood now looking at solid gray color now.
I can provide pictures if needed
RSAdmin says
Hi Greg- If you are using Ready Seal, then you can not stain over another product. The wood needs to be clean and bare before Ready Seal can penetrate in. If you are using another product, you should check with that manufacturer to see what their recommended protocol is for application. Please call our office at 1-888-782-4648 or 972-434-2028 during regular business hours Mon-Fri, and we’d love to help answer all your questions about wood preparation and application of Ready Seal.
Tim Yaotome says
Thanks for the great read on restaining decks! My favorite part of your article was when you said that if the deck already has a stain, one must remove the old stain before staining it with the new one after cleaning. As of the moment, I am thinking of having a new deck for my home at our summer beach house made. I will keep these in mind if I needed to restain, but first, I need a good supplier of decking material to have the deck made so that the deck will be sturdy enough to last a summer outing and a future restaining.
RSAdmin says
Thanks for your comments Tim! Yes, it is true that you need to strip/remove old stain first if the previous stain is something other than Ready Seal. If you follow our removal and cleaning protocol, you can bring an old fence or deck back to a beautiful life! But if the “old” stain is already Ready Seal, then it’s an easier process. All you need to do is clean and rinse the wood well, let it dry down to 12% moisture or less, then you can reapply Ready Seal right on top of Ready Seal. This makes Ready Seal a perfect choice for a new structure, as the long-term maintenance and upkeep is simple.
Geline says
This is an awesome read. Thanks for sharing this to us!
Lie says
Definitely needed this information now. Thank you for posting and give me what I need to know.